Sunday, December 14, 2014

The Great Enigma of Central Europe: Volume I

I would say that, if asked, most Americans would classify Prague as Western Europe and the Czech Republic as Eastern Europe- which is nonsense but these are the images and emotions that these places conjure up to most Americans.  It amazes me how little we Americans (myself included) know about the cream filling in this delicious little European Oreo (almost as much as it amazes me how little we know about the filling in an actual Oreo).  So in order to dispel the myth that I am living in either a decrepit panelak in some Eastern European backwater or a modern Western European bastion of progressive urban design, I present to you a special 60-minute edition of Wargo's World-  Central Europe:  My 2 Crowns.


The definition changes depending on who you ask but I would define Central Europe with the map above.  These countries formed the western-most border of the former Soviet Bloc and as such are markedly different to their western neighbors.  Most of these countries have only been out from under the iron curtain for around 25 years or so.  While very few people alive today remember the destruction of WWII, many people remember life under communism here.  Anyone over the age of 30 has some memory of what life was like under the regime and their stories are fascinating.  For instance, these countries all have an extensive and well-constructed hiking trail system.  The reason is that since citizens of these countries weren't allowed to travel outside the borders, they created these trails as hiking was one of the few sources of recreation allowed them.  This is the same reason that every (and I do me EVERY) family has a summer cottage somewhere in the republic.  My favorite story came from an old woman who, when explaining why Valentine's Day wasn't so popular in the Czech Republic, said:  "Valentine Day used to be back in day of my mother.  But on communistic time were no love."

On the other side of the fence, even though they were all part of the Soviet Union, these countries are much different than what we deem Eastern Europe.  After the fall of communism, most of these countries were flooded with foreign investment and today are much more economically advanced than their Eastern brethren who maintained much stronger ties to the Motherland.  The resulting economic situation is solid but not quite as strong as Western nations.  This has it's ups and downs.  The cost of living in these countries is fairly low but nationals wanting to spend their hard-earned Central European currency abroad are typically in for quite a shock.  On the plus side, there isn't such an influx of foreigners into the country (most emigres head for the greener pastures of Western Europe) and the resulting ethnic and socio-economic homogeneity makes for an incredibly safe and relatively crime-free region.

Apart from Prague, I've been to a few other places in Central Europe that, while different than the CZ in many ways, still hold true to what I mentioned above.

Krakow.  Mostly destroyed during the war the resulting rebuilt city looks very western in appearance but is unmistakably Polish under its skin.  I never really cared anything for Polish history and really didn't have any interest in visiting.  I was hoping to go, see the sights, check Poland off my list and never look back.  But, wow- Poland is awesome.  The people are incredibly friendly and fun, the food is surprisingly excellent, the city is lovely, the atmosphere is electric- 2 parts old-world charm; 1 part young vibrancy and the history is fascinating.

I won't go into detail but I honestly think this is something everyone should see.  

Of course we visited Auschwitz on a picture-perfect fall day.  

Eerie foggy Jewish cemetery.

Fog.  The downside to central Europe is that it's like this EVERY SINGLE DAY between October and January.

An old train sign from when Krakow was under German occupation (Krakau Hauptbahnhof).

I'm sure this view must be lovely.

Old town's are incredible in the fog.  Makes me feel like a secret agent for some reason.




Next up- Budapest, but before I go I'll leave you with a few fun facts about the Czech Republic.

Things about Czechs and Czech society that make me chuckle:

Young Czechs love Jack Daniel's with a passion that rivals American college students' love of Jäger.  I was teaching at a Czech high school once and watched an 18-year old girl spend, literally, half a day producing an immaculate drawing of the Jack Daniel's label from memory.

Czechs love Florida.  Ask any Czech where they would want to travel to in America and as often as the answer is New York, it's Florida.  Apparently Florida's stigma of being a staging area for America's cemeteries, or as the global capital of white trash is completely lost on Czechs.  Good for them.  Someone's gotta go to Florida.

Czech this out!  Pop music the world over is generally pretty awful- but Czech pop absolutely takes the cake.